LASSEN PARK – BLAST FROM THE PAST II

episode 2 in a weekend with extended family

 

Amazing how quickly a yesterday from 60-plus years ago seems like a yesterday from well… yesterday.

Candi, Brother Tim and I were driving the Lassen Park Road – it having opened for the season only a week before – stopping for alpine views, conversations with others and looking for sites for a picnic lunch. 

A few miles up the twisting route, we paused at a point to view the ragged rim of the ancient Mount Tehama. Stunted pines, dwarfed by elevation, roots cloaked in patchy snow, clung to basalt. In the distance lay Mill Creek Meadows and, beyond that, the azure, blue pool of Lake Almanor. 

A couple drove up on a black Harley Davidson, so I had to engage. A week out from Green Bay, Wisconsin, they were.  I told ‘em I was from nearby Chico. “Chico?” the man exclaimed. “We used to have one of your Chico boys in the Pack.” “Aaron Rogers,” I confirmed, “graduate of Pleasant Valley High.” “Yeah,” the man laughed. “He moved on to the Jets so we don’t care about him anymore.” Ahhh. The people you meet on the road.

 

State Route 89 is the highway that serpentines its way through Lassen Volcanic National Park. My pick for the most beautiful road in California, it runs from Mount Shasta City (Siskiyou County) to Topaz (Mono County) winding through volcanic legacy, high deserts, pristine lakes, tourist meccas and granite outcrops.  Beat that anywhere, I dare ya. Annually, from after the first significant snowfall of autumn until mid-June, the road is closed through Lassen ~ the 8500 foot summit too much for plows and blowers in those reaches. 

 

Everything seems so fresh and new just after opening. Two alpine ponds rest just below the summit. Lake Helen and its mate were both crusted with ice, but the parking lot to the Lassen Peak Trailhead was cleared. The cars of at least two dozen intrepid souls rested while their owners braved the mostly snow covered route to the 10,400 foot top. Not today for us.

At Kings Creek meadow we found the footing a bit dicey, so on to Summit Lake where we would pause for some crackers and cheese and fresh fruit. Or would we? The steel gates to the camping area were securely locked. Picnic area unavailable. I turned the Subaru around to retrace our steps. But Candi said, essentially, Not yet. Another U-turn (looking like damned out-of-state tourists) and we pressed a mile or two further.

 

Beginning on page 151 of “Eden, Indeed,”* in a recollection about my delivering foodstuffs to a fire camp on the Mendocino, a brief back story is offered about a 12-year-old me, on the Twin Lakes Trail in Lassen Park, hiking with Dad. 

A ‘call of nature’ prompts me to stray off trail when I find myself peeing into really warm duff.  Something wasn’t right and at Dad’s command, I hightailed it down the trail to the ranger’s outpost near where he’d parked his Jeepster.  

Almost before I could get the words out about the hot duff, the ranger grabbed a Pulaski, told me a little something about the nature of lightning strikes and raced up the trail.  I stood in the vacant ranger station not knowing what to do or where to go until Dad clambered down the trail lugging my Kelty Pack along with his own.

 

That mile or two further found us at the old outpost.  I walked across the parking area to the Echo Lake Trail that now had a wooden walkway crossing the meadow.  The place names on the directional sign were all familiar.  

I’d hiked to most of them and a carousel of memories circled in my head.  The bridge was new.  The sign was, too.  But everything else was exactly the same.

Almost.  Across the meadow beyond the bridge, the pine forest was a collection of denuded stumps and spikes, victims of 2022’s Dixie Fire which started forty miles away over ridges and down canyons. 

Standing next to the trail sign I recalled the ranger and his Pulaski and wondered if this might have been the result sixty years before had a young kid not ventured off the trail to pee.  Or was that just yesterday?

 

© 2024

Church of the Open Road Press

 

* Don’t yet have your copy of Eden, Indeed?  It’s still available to order from your local independent bookstore (it's in the Ingram-Spark catalog) or through your favorite online source. (The Church of the Open Road always recommends doing business with the former...)

CAMP LASSEN – BLAST FROM THE PAST III

 episode 3 in a weekend with extended family

 As coincidence would have it, on the evening of that very distressing day when the final decree for divorce from my first marriage was issued, I had been roped into being ‘entertainment’ for a Methodist Church family camp up the hill from Chico. There, I regaled the assembled with my impressions of Jimmy Stewart [everyone can do impressions of Jimmy Stewart] and my strumming of the ukulele [anyone can strum a uke; most are smart enough not to.] I don’t imagine that I was particularly entertaining. At some point, the minister asked the typical how’s it goin’ question, and man of God that he was, I gave an honest answer. Probably unexpected.

 Fast forward a few years and I am marrying the good reverend’s daughter at that very camp.

 

 

Thirty-eight years later, almost to the day, said bride, my dear Candace, and I are returning from a Lake Almanor family weekend. We’d chosen to travel the scenic Deer Creek Highway and were doing so when she suggested we take a detour into Butte Meadows and then up the gravel road to the Boy Scout Camp where it all began.  

 

The place had aged and the spirit seemed muted as the parcel was dotted with No Trespassing signs nailed to yellow pines, cedars and fence posts. A stroll through romance and memories would be out of the question this day. We turned around at the gate, but after a couple of hundred yards, the urge was too great. Parking by the side of the road, we hiked back to the gate and entered the property. Just this side of the three flagpoles on the edge of the Chico Meadows greenery, I hailed a young man. “Permission to come aboard,” I hollered. 

 The fellow may not have understood the reference, but he did kindly shepherd us to the grand old lodge fashioned of huge logs and timbers where we were graciously welcomed and – there being no young campers on site yet – invited to explore around a bit.

 Camp Lassen was established in 1933. (I’d always thought the main building was a product of the WPA.)  Sometime during the 1950s, a young camper named Billy Bernard attended, paddled an aluminum canoe in the pond, sipped water from pipe at the far end of the meadow – that spring being the source of Chico Creek – and located arrowheads crafted from flint and obsidian. 

In 1986, thirty years later and now the Superintendent of the Jamestown (Tuolumne County) School District where I would enjoy my first administrative placement, ‘William’ Bernard took the children of those attending out to find arrowheads and splash in the pond.

 

Out back of the lodge stands the staff cabin, suited for those who’d be living in Chico Meadows for a summer rather than simply a week.  

 

There, some miscreant attending our nuptials found it entertaining to stuff the wedding bedstead with pinecones and needles and a grotesque sculpted clay fish head. Something about which is still laughable.

 

 

Candi is the individual within our coupling that always wants to see what’s around the next bend. Time after time, she’s encouraged us to travel just a bit farther or explore just a bit more or edge across a line I might otherwise turn from. This was the case at Camp Lassen this year: 38 years later.  

 

I’m so glad she did because we were informed that the Lassen Area Scouting Council is putting the property up for sale. With Scouting in 21^st century decline, one wonders where the future Billy Bernards of the world will find their first arrowheads.

 

© 2024

Church of the Open Road Press

FIELD NOTES FROM FIVE DAYS ON THE MOTO GUZZI

 …back in the saddle again… 

It was the multi-day motorcycle tour I absolutely needed to have.  A trip to my favored old stompin’ grounds up north would rekindle my distance riding spirit but highballing on the I-5 freeway is not the best use of an Italian masterpiece such as the Guzzi.  Still, when one crests that hill on the four-lane some thirty-plus miles north of Redding and sees the welcoming arms of Mount Shasta – the Queen of the Southern Cascades – the breakneck pace of the interstate seems worth it.  A few moments off the bike to take in the view is in order.  

Shasta would be riding on my shoulder for much of the week’s adventure.  (Four days later, I would be gazing at her when my cell phone pinged to alert me about a highly anticipated jury verdict.  I’ll always know the answer to the question “Where were you when you heard about…” It’ll be Mount Shasta.)

 

 

Whenever possible, I overnight in McCloud at the historic McCloud Hotel.  Brother Randy from the Pacific Northwest and I meet up there for a stroll around the business district and the company town housing. 

Always a delight to see what some folks have done to dress up some of the vintage company town homes of eighty to hundred years back.  Dinner is usually at the Sage Restaurant at the hotel and sleep is comfortable, relaxing as the old place fills dreams with the sounds of the creaking floor joists and the musty aroma of history.

 Sadly, the Sage Restaurant was unable to open for dinner dining this year for lack of staffing.  We were looking forward to a nice bottle of wine and a perfectly cooked filet.  Breakfast, however, was nicely turned out, setting up a pleasant second day on the road.

 

The Volcanic Legacy highway crosses Lake Britton near the train trestle from that frightening scene in the movie “Stand by Me” and leads us to Burney Falls State Park. 

The entrance station ranger offered to let me in for free if I’d allow him to take a spin on the Guzzi. He’d recently given up riding his Gold Wing.  I handed him my key but, ultimately, he shrugged and soon I was out nine bucks.  I couldn’t help but admire his giddy appreciation for the Guzzi.

 

 There’s a glorious rest stop / scenic overlook just off State Route 44 east of Old Station.  Situated halfway between Shasta and Lassen, it is always a go to.  Both summits seem close almost enough to touch.

This day, two sojourners from Austria were making their way from Mexico to Canada on the Pacific Crest Trail. Brother Randy engaged with them as they shared details of their thus-far adventure.  

My pal talked about his daughter’s semester in Austria and asked the kids to please feel free to call when they made Snoqualmie or Stevens Pass in Washington – still months away for them – tempting the hikers with hot showers, comfortable accommodations, and good food and wine.  I’ve bedded down many a night at Randy’s hostelry when riding up that way and can attest to the quality of the goods and services there offered.  Ahhh… The people you meet on the road.  Hopefully the couple will take advantage.

 

 Our route to Quincy took us along the east shore of Lake Almanor, where I lived for a couple of years when serving at the principal of the local elementary school.  Here, a favorite turnout with a view of Lassen in the distance…

An hour further south we took a side trip to visit the old Paxton Hotel.  That waystop is recounted in a previous post.  https://thechurchoftheopenroad.blogspot.com/2024/06/old-haunt.html

 

 The cozy and rustic VRBO cabin selected outside of Quincy would serve as a good layover spot.  A robust creek serenaded all day and all night.

 

The layover day allowed a trip to Bucks Lake passing the cabin (well, grand chalet) of a childhood chum.  The place looks just as I remember from back in the early 60s.  Well preserved.  Nice work!  Down the road a piece is the dam ~ a spot worthy of a portrait of the bike ~ but what caught my eye was the proliferation of Dogwood blossoms.   

Harbingers of lovely mountain summers and always among my favorites!

 

Afternoon would find me riding solo up the Quincy/LaPorte Highway into snow country with the road only plowed the day before.

Geographers tell us that there is a distinct difference in the geomorphology of Sierra Nevada and the Cascades. That granitic uplift to basaltic outflow shift is somewhere in the Feather River watershed.   

Sucker for a picture of an old steel bridge that I am, this one span crosses the Middle Fork of the Feather.  This might be that place.  If not, there's a nice swimming hole below.

 

Heading north the following day, we pass through the historic northern mine town of Greenville, devastated by the horrendous Dixie Fire of 2021.   

That visit is also shared in a previous post. 

  https://thechurchoftheopenroad.blogspot.com/2024/06/lessons-from-fire-footprint.html

 

 Retracing our steps back to McCloud and beyond, we are reminded that any road taken in the other direction is, essentially, a different ride.  The mountains, the meadows, the forests – all stunning and fresh, leading us to our final night in Dunsmuir.  The little berg nestled along the upper reaches of the Sacramento River is an historic whistle stop on the old California Northern (later Southern Pacific; currently Union Pacific) route. 

Café Maddalena is a favored restaurant there.  I stumbled in several years back to sit at the only seat available and enjoy perhaps the best meal on the road I’d ever had.  The café has become a must-stop treat anytime I’m in that neck of the woods.  

Unfortunately, the economics in this itty-bitty mountain town could not support the business.  Apparently, we were only a week or so late as its doors had closed permanently though the website was still up.  Such a disappointment.  Hopefully Café Maddalena will rise again.  We’ll keep checking back.

 

 Three or four years ago, I thought I’d tired of multi-day tours on the motorcycle.  I gave up a substantial model to downsize, but the urge never fully went away.  Does it ever?  A year ago, I upgraded to this 850cc Moto Guzzi V85tt touring model.  Distinctive and good looking.  Powerful enough.  Light.  And it eats both sweeping curves and twisting ones.  This past week’s ride makes me happy I’ve gotten back in the saddle.

See you on the road. 

 

Footnote

 

Around lunch time on the first day, I rolled into Willows.  In a bit of a rush, I fell back on a habit I’d developed long ago when my between-teaching summers were spent delivering local freight. In fact, that first summer, I earned nearly as much driving truck as I did as a teacher for the year.  Almost made me turn my back on a career in education.  Then one of the old-timers (52 years old) didn’t make it to the dock on Monday.  Died the Saturday before on the sixth green.  Heart failure.

     I was reminded of this as I parked the Moto Guzzi next to a bobtail like the one I’d driven.  Upon receiving my order (two Burrito Supremes and a small soft drink, speaking of asking for heart failure), I spied the driver: a lanky young red headed man with a full beard.  Probably weighed in at about 135 pounds.  As he stuffed his face, I thought, My God!  That was me fifty years ago!

     I ate my lunch and didn’t talk to the kid but about five miles up the freeway it occurred to me that I might have suggested: “The money is good right now, but the lifespan is short. Go for big dreams.”  But I didn’t.  

     The least I could have done was offer to pay for his taco.

 

 

© 2024

Church of the Open Road Press

LESSONS FROM A FIRE FOOTPRINT

 …second in a series from a long-put-off road trip

 

Northern California has always been my home.  For seventy-plus years my favorite places on earth always seem to be here.  The Covered Bridge on Butte Creek near Chico [page 81*], an out of town spot I’d pedaled to as a kid; Simpson Camp [page 186], a sheep herder’s outpost up toward Mendocino Pass; Mount Harkness [page 101], the Lassen Park promontory once staffed by Ed Abby: all hold memories of cool temperatures, fresh air, terrific views and get-away-from-it-all peacefulness.  And all places now visited by fire.  

 

I know this because I often hop on my motorcycle to visit some favored place and rekindle some memories.  Now, each time I straddle the thing, I find myself motoring into mile after mile of burn scar.  There’s no escaping it.

 

 

My riding buddy from Seattle and I met up in McCloud (Siskiyou County) to tour places of remembrance – expecting and enjoying views of Mounts Shasta and Lassen, Lakes Britton and Almanor and bergs Chester, Greenville and Quincy (Plumas County).  Except, Greenville ~ the Greenville I once knew ~ wasn’t there any longer.  The mostly wooden structures of its historic downtown must have gone up like a dried tinder match during 2021’s monstrous Dixie Fire.  I stood inside the foundation of  my once favorite café to snap a picture of the burned out hulk of the old Indian Valley Bank.

 

The Dixie Fire originated more than forty miles away in the depths of the Feather River Canyon. Pushed by gale-force winds, it spread east and north through forest and meadow and summer home tract and town consuming everything but memories. Up the road from Greenville, we stopped to stroll though some Plumas Forest acreage two-plus years removed from the inferno.  Blackened ponderosa pine trees spired toward an azure sky, likely awaiting salvage harvest.  But beneath the skeletons grew grasses, lupine, mule’s ears, even ferns. Life was returning.

 

 

This was reassuring because one can’t drive too far from wherever they live in almost any direction and not drive through burn scar.  Evidence is plentiful and bigger than ever.

 

Climate is naturally dynamic and ever-changing, but the boost mankind has provided over the last century-and-a-half is not a positive thing.  This I give passing thought to as I motor around Northern California on my fossil fuel powered, internal combustion motivated Moto Guzzi motorbike – and having a fine time – putting off until another day the uncomfortable conversation we all must eventually have with ourselves.

--- 

* Not to oversell the yet-to-be New York Times best seller Eden, Indeed: Tales, Truths and Fabrications of a Small Town Boy, but the page numbers noted above refer to specific tales from the collection.

© 2024

Church of the Open Road Press

OLD HAUNT

 …first in a series of stories from a recent road trip

My pal and I powered up the roughly paved road to the Paxton Hotel about mid-afternoon.  It would be my first real visit in about 65 years.  Or would it be a visit at all?

         As we set our Moto Guzzis on their side stands, a furious looking someone steamed in our direction from a nearby cabin.  

         “Just the man I was lookin’ for,” I said before he could utter a word.

         “Huh?”

         “Yeah.  You run this place?” I asked.

         “Security and stuff,” he said.  “Who wants to know?”

         I’d unzipped my bike’s tail pack and slipped out a copy Eden, Indeed: Tales, Truths and Fabrications of a Small Town Boy.  [Available by special order through your neighborhood independent bookseller – or through that online company that starts with an A.]  “Here,” I said.

         Whatever steam he had boiled up began to dissipate.  “What’s this?

         “A book I wrote about growing up in Chico. There’s a story in there [starting on page 48] about the time Dad stopped in here for a beer ‘cause he was tired of hearin’ me and my brother squabble in the back seat of the car.”  

         Security and Stuff crimped an eye and began thumbing through pages.

         “The barkeep served up Dad’s beer and then scared the crap out of me with a story about a ghost woman who sat in a rocking chair all night.”

         The man grinned.  “That rocker’s right there on the porch.” He pointed.  “Go take a look.”  

         I climbed up the stairs and snapped a picture or two.  Frankly, the chair didn’t look exactly like or old enough to be the one in question, but I’d been seven at the time of my other visit and memories can be fuzzy.  

         “Would you like to see what they’ve done to the place?”  I wondered who ‘they’ was and how many ‘theys’ there’d been in the past six decades.

         The entrance was not as I remembered.  No shaft of light illuminated a tired wooden floor or tattered rug when he opened the door.  I didn’t see the upright piano or the moth-eaten American flag.  The filmy curtains were gone and the windows seemed to close, which they didn’t do before.  It seems a lot of work had been done and redone to freshen things up.  The bar was polished and clean – no cigarette butts filled ashtrays – and the kitchen looked commercial and modern.  

         “If you’ve got a minute, I’ll show you the widow’s watch.  You wanna see it?”

         “Sure!”  

         I was expecting to head upstairs, but instead squeezed through a narrow portal and clumped down a darkened set of stairs.  The walls had no interior plaster or sheathing, just rough two-by-fours with light slipping through cracks in the exterior planking.  The air smelled of dust and mildew aged a century or more.  

         As we clambered down, he explained: “Sorry to be so gruff up there.  This is private property and I just ran off five guys and a gal who seemed pretty high on something.  Didn’t understand the term private.  Got into quite an argument.  Made me kinda edgy.  Sheriff can’t respond too quickly in this neck of the canyon.  Distance and all.”

         We pushed through a narrow passage with a grubby, littered floor with poor footing.  Opening a door that he must have located by feel alone he said, “Here’s where they found that rocking chair.”  Then he pointed at a pair of windows that didn’t quite close.  “That’s where she was lookin’ out.”

         I stepped around a weary settee that might have survived a trip around the horn and peered through the dusty, wrinkled glass.  “You can’t see the tracks from here.  Aren’t they up the hill?”

         “Yeah. It doesn’t make sense, does it?  But this is where they say they found what they think was the old gal’s chair.”  I again wondered about ‘they.’  

         He opened a door and now sunlight flooded in.  We stepped outside finding ourselves at the basement of the grand old building.  The Feather River rushed by in the ravine a hundred or so feet below us, its current offering an age-old whisper.  Although we could see Highway 70, the old Western Pacific Line was nowhere in sight.

         He thumbed through the book.  “So you grew up in Chico?”

         “Yep.”

         “So did I.  Chico High.  Class of ’79.”  He offered a bit more bio.  Father was a lawyer.  He, himself, flew fixed wing transport until he retired a few years back and moved home.  Came to do this for lack of anything better.  Enjoyed the place and the job; not so much having to run folks off.

 

The Paxton Hotel is now used for special occasions like weddings and such.  Rooms aren’t available to passers-through, but we were told we could stop by any time.

         As my pal and I puttered down the road back to the highway, I wasn’t sure I’d seen the actual chair – at least it wasn’t the one I remembered – or visited the actual window where the ghost lady would rock at midnight “Waitin’, just waitin’ for her true love to return.”  

         But I was sure I’d visited an old haunt.

 

© 2024

Church of the Open Road Press